San Luigi dei Francesi (the national church of France in Rome, on Piazza San Luigi dei Francesi, 200m north of the Pantheon and 200m east of Piazza Navona): the French community church in Rome whose specific historical identity (the church established in 1518 under François I of France for the French national community in Rome, whose building construction lasted until 1589) would be entirely obscured by its institutional function if it didn't contain, in the Contarelli Chapel (the fifth chapel on the left as you enter), the three paintings of the life of Saint Matthew that Caravaggio (Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, 1571-1610) produced between 1599 and 1600 for his first major public commission, the paintings that established the Caravaggio style as the revolutionary force that changed the direction of European painting.
The specific Caravaggio revolution: the three San Luigi dei Francesi Caravaggio paintings (the Vocazione di San Matteo (the Calling of Saint Matthew, the left wall), the San Matteo e l'Angelo (the Inspiration of Saint Matthew, the altarpiece, the second version after the first was rejected by the Contarelli heirs), and the Martirio di San Matteo (the Martyrdom of Saint Matthew, the right wall)) constitute the most concentrated single site of the Caravaggio stylistic innovation in Rome (the other two primary Caravaggio churches, Santa Maria del Popolo (the Cerasi Chapel) and Sant'Agostino, have respectively two and one Caravaggio paintings each). The specific Caravaggio technique (the tenebrism, the specific use of a strong directional light source from outside the picture plane that illuminates the figures against a dark background, creating the specific dramatic contrast (the chiaroscuro) that no previous Western painter had deployed with this directional precision and this psychological effect) that the Vocazione di San Matteo (the Calling) demonstrates in the most immediately accessible form in the Western painting tradition.
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San Luigi dei Francesi: The Three Caravaggios and the Visit
The Calling of Saint Matthew
Vocazione di San Matteo (the Calling, left wall of the Contarelli Chapel, 1599-1600): the specific painting (the tax collector Matthew and his companions at a tavern table counting money. Christ and Saint Peter entering from the right, Christ's arm extended in the specific gesture that points toward Matthew. The light entering from a window above-right in the direction of Christ's gesture, illuminating the figures at the table in the specific tenebrism that transforms a mundane tavern scene into a transcendental moment): the specific question in the painting (who is Matthew?, the hand gesture of the figure at the table (is the bearded figure in the left-center pointing at himself (Matthew) or at the young man to his left?) creates the specific ambiguity that art historians have argued about for 400 years): the specific Caravaggio light direction (the window above the right of the painting, the natural light that the painting simulates at the same angle as the actual natural light entering from the actual Contarelli Chapel window, creating the specific spatially unified Caravaggio trompe-l'oeil (the painted light matching the real light)).
Chiesa Di San Luigi Dei Francesi Caravaggio: skip-the-line & guided tours
Compare skip-the-line tickets and guided visits for Chiesa Di San Luigi Dei Francesi Caravaggio.
See availability & prices →Compare tours on Viator →We may earn a commission, at no extra cost to you.The Martyrdom and the Inspiration
Martirio di San Matteo (right wall, the 1600 Martyrdom in the dramatic Caravaggio spiral composition), and San Matteo e l'Angelo (altarpiece, the second version, 1602, after the Contarelli heirs rejected the first (now destroyed) version as too informal (Matthew's dirty feet, his peasant appearance, the angel guiding his hand as if he couldn't write)): the specific second-version Caravaggio strategy (the altarpiece that retains the intimacy of the rejected first version while adding the specific compositional dignity (the Matthew now seated, looking up at the angel, his feet less prominent) that the patrons required): the three Contarelli paintings constitute the most complete single Caravaggio program in any Italian church and the primary text for the 400-year-old argument about the Caravaggio revolution. Open daily 7:30-12:30 and 15:00-19:00. Free. The coin-operated lighting (€0.50 coin to illuminate the paintings, the chapel light switches off automatically after 2 minutes. Keep coins ready for the full viewing experience).
Q&A: San Luigi dei Francesi Caravaggio
Do I need a ticket or a reservation for the San Luigi dei Francesi Caravaggio?
No, the San Luigi dei Francesi is a functioning Catholic church with free admission at all hours during the opening times (7:30-12:30 and 15:00-19:00 daily). The Contarelli Chapel (the Caravaggio chapel) is always accessible from the church interior without a ticket, a reservation, or any entry formality. The only specific cost: the €0.50 coin for the chapel lighting (the illumination system that reveals the specific Caravaggio tenebrism effect in the chapel's natural low-light condition): bring €2 worth of €0.50 coins for the full viewing experience of all three paintings. The specific crowd management: the San Luigi dei Francesi receives approximately 1,000-1,500 visitors per day in the peak season (the church is included in the standard Pantheon-Navona circuit that the guided tour groups follow): arrive at 7:30am (the opening, before the tour groups) or after 18:00 (the closing hour approaches) for the most private Caravaggio experience.
Internal Links
- Caravaggio Roma: Il Circuito Completo
- San Luigi dei Francesi: Caravaggio nel Contesto
- Fotografare il Caravaggio: La Luce della Cappella
- San Luigi dei Francesi: Ingresso Gratuito
- Caravaggio in Inverno: Le Tre Tele Senza Folla
- Roma Barocca: Caravaggio Nascosto
- San Luigi dei Francesi: 5 Minuti dalla Navona