Destinations · City guide

Christmas in Rome Guide

Rome's claim on Christmas is deeper than any other city's, the Roman basilicas contain relics of the Holy Crib. The Papal Christmas tradition has been celebrated continuously at Saint...

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Rome's claim on Christmas is deeper than any other city's, the Roman basilicas contain relics of the Holy Crib. The Papal Christmas tradition has been celebrated continuously at Saint Peter's for 1,700 years. And the specific Roman Christmas calendar (beginning December 8 with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, when the Pope traditionally lays a wreath on the column of the Immaculate Conception in Piazza di Spagna, and ending January 6 with the Epiphany Papal Mass in Saint Peter's) is a living liturgical tradition with no equivalent in any other city. For the visitor with even a passing interest in the historical and spiritual dimension of Christmas, Rome in December isn't merely atmospheric, it is the origin point of the Western Christmas tradition as a civic and cultural event.

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Rome Christmas Events Calendar

Gina Lollobrigida (Rome, Christmas 1962)
Gina Lollobrigida (Rome, Christmas 1962) · photo AP Photo / Mario Torrisi · Public domain · via Wikimedia Commons

December 8: The Feast of the Immaculate Conception

December 8 is the official start of the Christmas season in Rome, the Papal ceremony at the Column of the Immaculate Conception in Piazza di Spagna (the tall column topped with a bronze figure of the Virgin Mary, erected in 1857), where the Pope or a Cardinal representative lays a wreath at the base of the column while fire ladders hold other wreaths at the summit. The ceremony is brief (15-20 minutes), free to attend, and draws a significant Roman crowd. The same day: Piazza Navona Christmas market opens, and the major Roman Christmas decorations go up.

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December 24-25: The Vatican Christmas Events

The Papal Christmas Midnight Mass (technically beginning at 10:00 PM on December 24 in the current Vatican protocol): celebrated by the Pope in Saint Peter's Basilica, broadcast worldwide, and attended by approximately 10,000 people inside the basilica with overflow seating in Saint Peter's Square for another 50,000+. Tickets for the interior Mass: requested through the Ufficio Pontificio (prefecture.va), distributed by specific Dioceses and Catholic organizations, direct individual requests from the public aren't guaranteed. The exterior experience (Saint Peter's Square, screens showing the Mass, the midnight blessing "Urbi et Orbi") requires no ticket. The December 25 noon "Urbi et Orbi" blessing from the Loggia of Saint Peter's: free, public, draws tens of thousands.

The Roman Church Presepi Circuit

Rome's churches install nativity scenes of varying scale and artistic quality from December 8 through January 6, the most historically significant: the presepe at Santa Maria Maggiore (the relic of the Holy Crib, planks claimed to be from the manger at Bethlehem, is displayed from December 25 to February 2). The presepe at Sant'Anastasia (the oldest Christmas Mass site in Rome, celebrated here since the 5th century AD). And the mechanical presepe at the church of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli on the Capitoline Hill (a traditional animated nativity scene that has operated in the church since the 1800s, with the specific bambinello, the Christ child figure, carried in procession).

Q&A: Christmas in Rome

What is the best way to experience Christmas Eve in Rome?

The specific Rome Christmas Eve sequence: afternoon walk through Piazza Navona Befana market (at its peak December 23-24). Early evening aperitivo (pre-dinner drink with snacks) in a Trastevere bar (the Roman Christmas Eve aperitivo hour, before the family dinners begin, has a specific festive quality as the neighborhood prepares for the vigilia). The walk from Trastevere to Saint Peter's Square for the approach to the 10pm Mass (arrive by 8:30pm for the square positions). Return through Piazza Navona at midnight when the market closes and the crowd gathers for the traditional Roman New Year drinking of Prosecco at the fountain. This is a walking itinerary. Rome on Christmas Eve is best experienced on foot.

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Christmas decorations in Rome

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