Destinations · Town guide

Foro Italico Rome Guide

The Foro Italico (formerly the Foro Mussolini, 1927-1938) is the most complete surviving Fascist architectural ensemble in Italy, and arguably in Europe, because it was never...

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The Foro Italico (formerly the Foro Mussolini, 1927-1938) is the most complete surviving Fascist architectural ensemble in Italy, and arguably in Europe, because it was never substantially altered after the war. The obelisk inscribed "MUSSOLINI DVX" (Mussolini the Leader) at the northern entrance still stands. The mosaic pavement of the piazza still spells out "DVCE" in its Fascist-era dedication. The 60 marble athletes in the Stadio dei Marmi (the Stadium of Marbles), the idealized gymnasts, wrestlers, and athletes that represented the specific Fascist conception of the human body as political statement, still ring the oval competition track. The complex is now an active sports facility used by Rome's sports federations and by the Italian national football team (the Stadio Olimpico hosts the Rome derby and the Italian national team's home matches). Its daily use by regular Romans for sport and recreation makes the Fascist architecture a living context rather than a museum object.

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What to See at the Foro Italico

Foro Italico 10
Foro Italico 10 · photo Dedda71 · CC BY 3.0 · via Wikimedia Commons

The Mussolini Obelisk and Piazza Mosaic

The white marble obelisk (36 meters tall, erected 1932) at the southern entrance to the complex bears the inscription "MUSSOLINI DVX" in monumental carved letters that have never been removed, covered, or modified. This is intentional, the post-war Italian state made a specific choice to maintain the inscription as a historical monument to the Fascist period rather than erasing it. The piazza mosaic surrounding the obelisk (the "Piazzale dell'Impero") depicts scenes of Fascist athletic culture, sporting victories, and the specific iconography of the Mussolini cult in polychrome marble tesserae. Walking through the piazza on any weekday morning, when schoolchildren play football on the adjacent fields and middle-aged Romans do their morning walk, produces the specific cognitive dissonance of Fascist monument and ordinary Roman life in the same space.

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Stadio dei Marmi

The Stadio dei Marmi (the Stadium of Marbles, not a marble stadium but a stadium surrounded by marble sculptures) was designed by Enrico del Debbio and completed 1932. The 60 white marble athletes (donated by the Italian provinces, each sculpture bears the name of its provincial donor at the base) represent idealized athletic types in the specific neo-Greek aesthetic of Italian Fascism's physical culture ideology. The stadium is an active athletics track. Entry is generally free during non-event periods by walking through the gate on the north side of the complex. Standing on the track surrounded by the marble figures and looking at the Mussolini obelisk on the south axis produces the most concentrated experience of Fascist architectural ideology available anywhere in Italy.

Q&A: Foro Italico

How do I get to the Foro Italico from central Rome?

Bus 32 from the Lungotevere runs directly to the Foro Italico. Tram 2 from Flaminio (Metro A Flaminio) runs along the Lungotevere to the Foro Italico stop. By car: parking available on Lungotevere Maresciallo Cadorna. Walking from Ponte Milvio (the ancient Roman bridge, about 500m south): pleasant 10-minute riverside walk. The Foro Italico is approximately 4km north of Piazza del Popolo, too far to walk from the historic center but easily accessible by public transport. The Stadio Olimpico hosts AS Roma and Lazio home matches. Check the match calendar if combining the Foro Italico architecture visit with a football match.

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