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Isola Bella Lago Maggiore Guide

Isola Bella (the island in Lago Maggiore. 320m × 180m, the smallest of the three Borromean Islands, in the western Lago Maggiore between Stresa and Verbania, accessible by boat from Stresa...

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Isola Bella (the island in Lago Maggiore. 320m × 180m, the smallest of the three Borromean Islands, in the western Lago Maggiore between Stresa and Verbania, accessible by boat from Stresa (10 minutes) or Baveno (15 minutes)): the island that the Borromeo family transformed from a barren rock with a fishing village into the most theatrical single garden-palace landscape in Italy through a construction program begun in 1632 by Carlo III Borromeo and completed (substantially) by Vitaliano VI Borromeo in 1671, the 39 years of building that produced the Palazzo Borromeo (the baroque palace on the island's northern end) and the ten-terrace garden (the stepped garden rising from the water level to the statue-crowned apex 37m above the lake) that makes Isola Bella the most specifically theatrical human landscape on any Italian lake.

The theatrical intention: the Isola Bella was specifically designed as theater, not the theater of a working garden but the garden as performance, the landscape as staged spectacle for the political and social elite of the 17th-century Italian aristocracy. Cardinal Federico Borromeo (the Archbishop of Milan, the cousin of the builder Carlo III) described the intention in 1635: the island should appear from the lake as a ship sailing the water, with the garden terraces as the rigging and the palace as the hull, the specific metaphor of the island-as-ship that the visitor arriving by boat from Stresa still encounters in the visual composition of the garden terraces rising above the water line.

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Isola Bella: Palace, Garden, and Grottos

Guns at the pier of Isola Bella, Lago Maggiore, Italy
Guns at the pier of Isola Bella, Lago Maggiore, Italy · photo JoJan · CC BY 3.0 · via Wikimedia Commons

The Ten-Terrace Garden

Isola Bella garden (the ten terraces from the lake level to the apex statue, the specific baroque garden program of the terraces (the clipped bay hedges, the citrus trees in terracotta pots, the white peacocks that the Borromeo family has maintained on the island since the 17th century, and the specific viewing position from the apex terrace where the lake panorama (the western shore from Verbania to Stresa, the Alps visible above the lake surface) combines with the garden structure below in the specific Italian baroque garden visual experience)): the garden circuit (the complete ascent through all ten terraces. 45-60 minutes at a comfortable pace with the required stopping at each terrace viewing platform): the most specifically theatrical single garden experience in Italy, more complete in its baroque program than the Villa d'Este at Tivoli and more dramatically positioned than any comparable Italian garden.

The Palace and Grottos

Palazzo Borromeo (the 17th-century palace, the state rooms, the Napoleon suite (the Emperor Napoleon I stayed here in 1797 during his Italian campaign and again in 1800, the specific suite where Napoleon slept and the specific historical coincidence that the most theatrical baroque island in Italy provided a night's lodging to the most theatrical political figure of the early 19th century)), and the grottos (the artificial underground grottoes beneath the palace, the shell-encrusted rooms whose specific cool temperature (12°C year-round) and the specific ornamental program (the seashell mosaics, the white pebble floor patterns, and the sculptural groups) produce the most specifically baroque grotto atmosphere in Italy): open daily late March through late October 9:00-18:00. Admission approximately €18 (palace + garden combined).

Q&A: Isola Bella

Is Isola Bella the most worth visiting of the three Borromean Islands?

The three Borromean Islands compared: Isola Bella (the palace and garden, the most theatrically impressive single site, the most expensive admission, the most crowded in summer), Isola Madre (the larger botanical garden island, the English landscape garden with the oldest Kashmir cypress in Europe, the free-roaming parrots, and the specific informal character that contrasts with Isola Bella's formality. Admission approximately €14), and Isola Superiore/Pescatori (the fishing village island, no palace, no formal garden, the authentic lakeside fishing community character and the Lago Maggiore fish lunch restaurants: free access). For the visitor choosing a single Borromean Island: Isola Bella for the most spectacular single baroque experience. Isola Madre for the most botanically varied garden. Isola Pescatori for the most authentic Italian lake village character at no admission cost.

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