Eat & drink · Food

Italy Pasta Shapes Guide

The Italian pasta map is a geographic document, each pasta shape tells you where you are in Italy as reliably as the landscape or the dialect. Trofie (the twisted Ligurian pasta) exists...

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The Italian pasta map is a geographic document, each pasta shape tells you where you are in Italy as reliably as the landscape or the dialect. Trofie (the twisted Ligurian pasta) exists within approximately 80 km of Genoa in any direction. Outside this zone it is an imported product, available but without the specific reference that makes it meaningful. Pici (the thick hand-rolled Sienese pasta) is specifically from the clay hills of southern Tuscany, finding excellent pici in Rome or Milan is possible at Tuscan-focused restaurants but the specific rusticity of the shape, which requires a specific Sienese table culture to make sense, is lost outside its geography. Understanding Italian pasta as a regional map, traveling through Italy by following the specific shapes that belong to each territory, is the most intellectually satisfying way to get around Italian food culture.

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Regional Pasta Shape Tour

Italy Pasta Shapes Guide
Italy Pasta Shapes Guide · photo Horacio Cambeiro · CC BY 4.0 · via Wikimedia Commons

Liguria: Trofie and Corzetti

Trofie (small twisted pasta, specifically shaped by rolling small pieces of dough against the palm) is found fresh in every pasta shop and restaurant in Genova and the Ligurian Riviera. It exists primarily to carry pesto alla genovese, which clings to the twisted surface more effectively than any other format. The corzetto stampato (a round pasta disk pressed with a carved wooden stamp that embosses a decorative pattern, the stamp is a specific Ligurian artisan object sold as souvenirs) is the most visually distinctive Ligurian pasta and the most difficult to find outside the specific Riviera di Levante zone east of Genova. Fresh pasta shops (pastifici) in Recco, Camogli, and Rapallo are the best sources.

Puglia: Orecchiette and the Living Street Pasta Tradition

The Rione Monti district in Bari Vecchia (the old city of Bari) has the most specific Italian pasta-making street experience still in operation: the women who sit in front of their houses making fresh orecchiette by hand (the specific rolling motion of the thumb drawing the small dough disk toward the body over a wooden board to produce the ear-cup shape) and selling them directly from tables on the Via dell'Arco Basso and surrounding streets. This isn't a tourist performance, it is the continuation of a domestic pasta-making tradition into a commercial format. The fresh orecchiette available here, made while you watch and delivered in a paper bag, are the most specifically Barese food buy available in any Italian city.

Tuscany: Pici and the Hand-Rolled Thick Spaghetti

Pici (singular: picio) is the Sienese hand-rolled pasta, a thick irregular spaghetti made by rolling a thick rope of flour-water dough (no egg) between the palms until the desired thickness is achieved. The irregularity is the point: the varying thickness of the picio, thicker in the middle, tapering at the ends, produces different textures at different points of the same strand, which is the specific quality that machine-made pasta can't replicate. Pici appears on restaurant menus throughout the Siena province and in the Val d'Orcia. The canonical sauce is aglione (the large mild garlic of the Val di Chiana, slow-cooked in olive oil and tomato to a sweet, pungent sauce) or wild boar ragù.

Q&A: Italy Pasta Shapes Regional

Where can I buy regional pasta to take home?

The best approach: buy dried versions of the most regionally specific pasta from local pastifici (fresh pasta shops that also sell dried). Most Italian regional pasta shapes are available dried: trofie liguri, orecchiette pugliesi, pici senesi (all available dried and shelf-stable, unlike fresh). The fresh versions aren't reliably transportable without specific packaging. Buying dried orecchiette in the Bari old city market, dried trofie at a Genovese pastificio, and dried pici in a Siena gastronomia provides a transportable collection of regional Italian pasta that, when cooked at home with the correct sauce, reproduces the specific regional Italian flavor experience more faithfully than any other food souvenir.

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