Italy is simultaneously one of the best and one of the most confusing countries in Europe for vegetarian and vegan travelers. Best because the Italian culinary tradition has an extraordinary range of vegetable, legume, and grain preparations that predate the modern concept of "vegetarian food" by centuries, the cucina povera (peasant cuisine) of most Italian regions was plant-based by economic necessity and is plant-based by tradition. Most confusing because the word "vegetariano" in an Italian restaurant context sometimes means "no meat" and sometimes means "no red meat but fish is fine" and sometimes means "this pasta has prosciutto in it but you can't really taste it." This guide get arounds both realities.
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The Italian Dishes That Are Already Vegetarian
The Italian culinary tradition's plant-based heritage is genuine and extensive. Starting points: cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper pasta. Roman, no meat), pasta al pomodoro (tomato pasta, arguably the finest preparation of a simple ingredient in any cuisine), pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans, the foundational dish of the Italian peasant tradition, different in every region), ribollita (Tuscan bread and vegetable soup), panzanella (Tuscan bread salad with tomatoes and basil), caponata (Sicilian sweet-and-sour vegetable stew), pasta alla norma (eggplant and tomato. Catanian, excellent), pappa al pomodoro (Tuscan bread and tomato soup), several risotti (risotto ai funghi porcini, risotto al limone, most risotti are vegetarian), pizza (margherita is vegetarian, many variations are), and the entire tradition of contorni (vegetable side dishes, fagioli all'uccelletto, spinaci saltati, carciofi alla romana) that Italian restaurants serve as standalone dishes when requested. A vegetarian eating in Italy who knows what to order isn't eating badly, they are eating the core of what Italian cuisine actually is, minus the meat overlay.
Region by Region: Which Is Easiest for Vegetarians?
Tuscany and Umbria: Excellent. The bean, bread, and vegetable tradition is rich and available everywhere. Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, panzanella, pasta e fagioli, all vegetarian, all excellent, all widely available. Sicily: Very good. The Arab-influenced vegetable tradition (caponata, pasta alla norma, arancine) is substantive. The fish is everywhere but easy to avoid. Emilia-Romagna: More difficult, this is the region of prosciutto, mortadella, and meat ragù. But the fresh pasta (tagliatelle, tortelloni, pumpkin-filled pastas) can be ordered without meat filling, and the Parmigiano and the vegetable traditions are strong. Rome: Good, the traditional Roman vegetable preparations (carciofi, vignarola, concia di zucchine) are excellent and available. Avoid the restaurants near the Colosseum. Naples and Campania: Excellent, the pizza is perfect, the vegetable traditions (pasta e patate, pasta e fagioli, pasta con le zucchine) are strong, and the buffalo mozzarella is extraordinary.
Questions About Vegetarian and Vegan Travel in Italy
Is it easy to be vegan in Italy?
It is easier than it was 10 years ago and harder than France, Germany, or the UK. Dedicated vegan restaurants exist in Rome, Milan, Florence, and Bologna (significantly fewer in southern Italy and smaller cities). The challenge is the dairy, cheese and butter are embedded in many Italian preparations in ways that aren't visible on the menu description. Asking specifically about dairy content ("È senza latticini?") is necessary. The positive: olive oil is the dominant fat in southern Italian cooking (no dairy), Italian bread is generally vegan, and the vegetable and legume preparations of the south are naturally dairy-free in most cases.
What should vegetarians order in Italy?
Ask for: pasta al pomodoro, pasta cacio e pepe, pasta alla norma (check for anchovies in some versions), pizza margherita, risotto ai funghi (check for meat broth, ask "il risotto è fatto con brodo vegetale?"), minestrone (check for pancetta, ask "c'è carne nel minestrone?"), and the seasonal vegetable dishes (ask "che verdure avete oggi?"). Avoid: pasta alla carbonara (guanciale), pasta all'amatriciana (guanciale), pasta all'arrabbiata (anchovies sometimes added), and any "sugo" or "ragù" without confirmation.
Curiosità sulla Cucina Vegetariana Italiana
La tradizione dei giorni di magro nella Quaresima cattolica, i venerdì e i periodi di digiuno che proibivano la carne rossa, ha storicamente prodotto alcune delle più elaborate preparazioni vegetariane della cucina italiana. Il cappon magro (la composizione genovese di pesce e verdure in agrodolce) nacque come piatto quaresimale. La ribollita toscana era il pasto dei contadini nei giorni senza carne. La cucina di magro della tradizione religiosa italiana è, involontariamente, un repertorio di preparazioni vegetariane e vegane di qualità straordinaria, il vincolo religioso produceva creatività culinaria. Molte delle migliori specialità vegetariane regionali italiane hanno questa origine: erano "cibo da poveri" o "cibo da digiuno" che la cucina borghese ha poi valorizzato nel XX secolo. Vedi anche: Italy travel guide · Italian food guide · Italy on a budget.
