Destinations · Town guide

Courmayeur Guide

Courmayeur (1,224m altitude, Valle d'Aosta, the autonomous region in the northwest corner of Italy, bordered by France to the west and Switzerland to the north) is the Italian ski resort...

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Courmayeur (1,224m altitude, Valle d'Aosta, the autonomous region in the northwest corner of Italy, bordered by France to the west and Switzerland to the north) is the Italian ski resort that most consistently produces the reaction "this doesn't feel entirely Italian", because it isn't, entirely. The Valle d'Aosta has been a cultural and linguistic crossroads between the Italian peninsula, the Savoy French culture, and the specifically Valdostan tradition (the Patois Valdôtain, the Franco-Provençal dialect still spoken by a portion of the valley's population, is a language distinct from both French and Italian) for centuries, and Courmayeur reflects this: the architecture combines the specifically Valdostan stone-and-wood chalet form with a bourgeois elegance imported from the 19th-century alpine tourism tradition (the British and international alpine tourists who came to Courmayeur from the 1850s onward for the first systematic mountaineering explorations of Mont Blanc left a specific imprint on the village's commercial and hospitality character). The result: a ski resort of genuine physical beauty, with the most impressive mountain backdrop in Italy (the 4,808m Mont Blanc massif visible from every corner of the village), and a specific civilised quality that the Italian party-ski resort culture (Cortina's social posturing, Sestriere's sporty functionality) doesn't replicate.

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Courmayeur · Valle Daosta

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Courmayeur: Summer and Winter

view on Courmayeur, Aosta valley, Italy
view on Courmayeur, Aosta valley, Italy · photo X-Weinzar · CC BY-SA 3.0 · via Wikimedia Commons

Winter Skiing: The Skyway and the Runs

The Courmayeur ski area (approximately 100km of pistes, predominantly intermediate and advanced, the terrain is steeper than most Italian resorts) is accessed from the village by gondola to Plan Chécrouit (1,700m) and then by chair lifts to the highest point at Cresta d'Arp (2,755m). The specific Courmayeur winter highlight: the Skyway Monte Bianco (the rotating cable car from Pontal d'Entrèves, 4km from Courmayeur, to Punta Helbronner, 3,462m on the Italian face of the Mont Blanc massif) is the most spectacular mountain cable car installation in Italy, the viewing terrace at the top is at the level of the Mont Blanc glacier, with the French and Italian Alpes panorama visible on clear days from the Matterhorn to the Gran Paradiso. The Skyway operates year-round. In winter it connects to the Vallée Blanche off-piste route (the most famous ski descent in the Alps, from the top of the Aiguille du Midi on the French side) for expert skiers with a guide.

Summer Hiking: Tour du Mont Blanc

The Tour du Mont Blanc (the 170km circular trail around the Mont Blanc massif, crossing between Italy, France, and Switzerland in 9-11 days) begins and ends at Courmayeur, or rather, Courmayeur is the Italian stage of the circuit. The most spectacular Italian section of the TMB: the Val Ferret (the valley east of Courmayeur, following the Italian face of the Mont Blanc glacier from the Bertone refuge to the Bonatti refuge) is one of the most beautiful mountain days' walk available in the Alps. The Rifugio Bonatti (named for the Courmayeur-based mountaineer Walter Bonatti, who made the first solo ascent of the Matterhorn's north face in 1965) is accessible from Courmayeur on a day walk (3-4 hours each way) and provides the specific combination of Valdostan mountain hospitality and Mont Blanc glacier views that makes the Italian section of the TMB worth doing independently of the full circuit.

Q&A: Courmayeur

Is Courmayeur better than Cervinia for skiing?

Different rather than better, the perennial Italian alpine comparison. Courmayeur has more varied terrain (steeper, more interesting for advanced skiers), more alpine elegance in the village, and the Mont Blanc backdrop that is visually unmatched in Italy. Cervinia has higher altitude skiing (the Plateau Rosa connection to Zermatt on the Swiss side, allowing skiing into late April), longer runs, and more reliable snow conditions. For the visitor who wants the most beautiful alpine village and the most impressive mountain scenery: Courmayeur. For the visitor who wants the longest ski day and the most reliable conditions: Cervinia (or the joint Milky Way area of Sestriere-Sauze d'Oulx for quantity of terrain).

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Courmayeur from Rifugio Torino - Aosta Valley - Italy

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