Fano is a city of 60,000 inhabitants on the Adriatic coast of the Marche, 12km south of Pesaro and 60km north of Ancona. It sits at the end of Via Flaminia, the consular road built by Rome in 220 BC that connected the capital to the Adriatic, and has been the terminal point of this road for 2,200 years. The Arco di Augusto (27-9 BC) still spans Via Flaminia where it enters the city: one of the most impressive Roman triumphal arches outside Rome itself, though substantially damaged (the upper portion was demolished in 1463 when Sigismondo Malatesta used its stones for the castle). Fano has a Venetian-era sea wall, an excellent fish market, one of the finest Carnevali in the Marche (dating from 1347, with a tradition of satirical floats and the unique "getto dei coriandoli", throwing of candies, now replaced by macaroni, from the floats), and a general quality of life and urban character that makes it the finest city on the northern Marche coast for an overnight stay.
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The Arco di Augusto
The Arco d'Augusto di Fano was built in 27-9 BC under the emperor Augustus, probably to celebrate the reconstruction of Via Flaminia, which Augustus undertook as part of his administrative reorganization of Italy. It has three passages (the large central arch for wheeled traffic, two smaller side arches for pedestrians) of Istrian marble. The upper level (attic) with its inscription and sculptural decoration was demolished in 1463 by Sigismondo Malatesta, who used the stones for the Malatestiano castle nearby. What remains, the three arches and the massive imposts, is still an impressive structure, particularly viewed from Via Flaminia approach. The medieval fresco on the arch's inner wall (visible through the central passage) is an unexpected addition from the 14th century.
The Carnevale di Fano
The Carnevale di Fano, documented from 1347, is the oldest Carnevale in Italy by continuous documentation (Venezia's Carnevale has an earlier first mention but interrupted periods). The specific tradition: the allegorical floats throw sweets (getto, "throwing") to the crowds lining the route. Originally wax-coated sugared almonds, today a combination of sweets and the symbolic macaroni (maccaroni, the tradition of throwing cooked pasta from the floats dates from the 18th century and is unique to Fano). The floats are political-satirical in the tradition of Italian Carnevale, addressing the political events of the previous year. The event attracts approximately 200,000 visitors over three Sundays before Mardi Gras. If you are in the Marche in February: attend.
Questions About Fano
How do I get to Fano?
By train: on the Adriatic main line (Bologna-Bari, all trains stop at Fano). From Bologna: 2h. From Ancona: 45min. From Rimini: 45min. By car: A14 motorway, exit Fano. Via Flaminia from Rome reaches Fano after 278km, historically one of the most important road journeys in Italy.
What is the food of Fano?
Adriatic fish - Fano has an active fishing fleet and a fish market on the harbor that operates daily. The local speciality: vincigrassi (Fano claims priority over Macerata for this Marche pasta, the debate is unresolved), brodetto di pesce all'anconetana (fish stew with 13 varieties of fish, a saffron-based variant specific to the northern Marche coast), and the local white wine (Bianchello del Metauro DOC, produced in the Metauro valley immediately inland from Fano, light, crisp, naturally paired with Adriatic fish).
Curiosità su Fano
La via Flaminia, che termina a Fano, fu costruita dal censore Gaio Flaminio nel 220 a.C. durante il suo secondo consolato. Flaminio morì nella battaglia del Lago Trasimeno nel 217 a.C., quando le sue legioni furono annientate da Annibale in un'imboscata lungo le sponde del lago: la sua morte fu in parte attribuita dai Romani alla sua empietà, aveva avviato la costruzione della Flaminia senza consultare gli auspici. La strada che porta il suo nome collegò Roma alla Pianura Padana per 700 anni di dominio romano e rimane percorribile oggi (la SS3 nazionale segue esattamente il percorso antico per la maggior parte del suo tracciato). Il tratto più spettacolare è la Gola del Furlo, la gola scavata nel calcare appenninico dove la strada scorre tra pareti di roccia verticale alte 200 metri. Fano è la fine di questo percorso. Vedi anche: Le Marche · Pesaro · Urbino.
