Destinations · Town guide

Isola District Milan Guide

Isola (the Milan neighborhood north of Porta Garibaldi station, the specific triangular urban village whose boundaries are defined by the railway lines to the east and south, the Corso...

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Isola (the Milan neighborhood north of Porta Garibaldi station, the specific triangular urban village whose boundaries are defined by the railway lines to the east and south, Corso Como to the west, and Viale Zara to the north): the neighborhood that the Porta Nuova urban development (the 2010-2015 transformation that erected the Unicredit Tower (231m), the Bosco Verticale residential towers (80m and 112m), and Piazza Gae Aulenti shopping-and-offices complex around the former Varesine railway yard adjacent to Isola) transformed into the most paradoxical urban situation in Milan, the village-scale neighborhood of 5-storey 19th-century working-class apartment buildings and small artisan workshops, surrounded on three sides by the most dramatically new and most internationally photographed urban development in Italian 21st-century architecture.

The specific Isola paradox: the Porta Nuova development was designed to be the new Milan, the signature skyline that the city used for the 2015 Expo promotion, the Bosco Verticale that won the International Highrise Award in 2014 and appeared in architecture publications worldwide. The Isola neighborhood that the development surrounds became the old Milan that the new Milan makes legible by contrast, the small-scale, the artisan, the independent, the specifically Milanese working-class residential culture that the Porta Nuova gentrification has intensified rather than replaced, because the residents who valued Isola's specific character stayed and were joined by the creative class attracted by precisely the qualities that distinguish Isola from the new urban development next door.

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Isola District: What to Do, See, and Eat

Chiesa di S.Michele in Isola, north exposure
Chiesa di S.Michele in Isola, north exposure · photo Didier Descouens · CC BY-SA 4.0 · via Wikimedia Commons

The Street Art and Independent Shops

Isola street art (the specific concentration of large-format murals and smaller interventions that the Isola neighborhood has accumulated since the early 2000s. Via Carmagnola mural, Via Borsieri interventions, and the specific street art geography of the Isola that the neighborhood cultural associations have encouraged as part of the specific Isola identity cultivation): the Isola street art walk (the informal circuit of the neighborhood's most significant murals, no organized tour required, the murals are on the exterior walls visible from the public street in the specific Isola lane network between Via Borsieri and Via Carmagnola). The independent shops (the vintage clothing stores, the natural wine bars, the artisan chocolate and coffee specialists, and the design studios that the Isola commercial street network hosts along Via Borsieri, Via Porro Lambertenghi, and Via Carmagnola).

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The Aperitivo Scene

Isola aperitivo (the specific Isola early evening culture, the cocktail bars and wine bars of Via Borsieri and Piazza Minniti that host the aperitivo hour (18:30-20:00) for the creative-class Isola residents and the Milan visitors who have discovered the neighborhood as the alternative to the overcrowded Navigli and Brera aperitivo circuits): the specific Isola aperitivo recommendation, the natural wine bars (the Isola has the highest concentration of natural wine specialists in Milan) and the craft cocktail bars (Via Borsieri bar strip) that the Isola's creative-class identity has attracted as the preferred drinking culture over the standard Spritz-and-Aperol of the tourist areas.

Q&A: Isola District Milan

How do I get to Isola district from central Milan?

Metro M2 Green line to Garibaldi station (3 stops from Duomo via Cadorna), the Isola neighborhood is immediately north of the Garibaldi station exit, a 5-minute walk via Via Pasubio or Corso Como. Alternatively, Metro M5 Lilla line to Isola station (the specific metro stop named for the neighborhood, 2 stops from Garibaldi). The Isola is the most metro-accessible alternative Milan neighborhood, the 8-minute metro journey from the Duomo makes it a practical addition to any Milan day rather than a detour requiring significant time investment.

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San Michele in Isola, Venice, Italy

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