Italian tomato varieties at a glance
San Marzano DOP: Sarnese-Nocerino Campania. The only AVPN-approved pizza sauce tomato. Volcanic soil. Approximately €3-5/400g can (genuine DOP) | Pomodoro di Pachino IGP: Southeast Sicily. Cherry and cluster varieties. Intensely sweet | Cuore di Bue: Large beefsteak. Piemonte and Marche tradition. For Caprese | Piennolo del Vesuvio DOP: Hung on vine to dry. The specific Neapolitan winter tomato | Camone: Sardinian variety. Green-tinged. Savory-mineral character
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San Marzano DOP, why 90% of what you buy isn't San Marzano
The San Marzano (Solanum lycopersicum 'San Marzano') is a specific heirloom tomato variety developed in the San Marzano sul Sarno area of Campania (near the town of San Marzano, south of Naples, in the Sarnese-Nocerino plain between Naples and Salerno). The DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) designation. Pomodoro San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese-Nocerino DOP, certifies that the tomato was grown within the specific geographic zone of 41 communes in the provinces of Napoli, Salerno, and Avellino. The authentication problem: the global popularity of San Marzano (driven by the AVPN pizza certification requirement that specifies San Marzano as the only permitted pizza sauce tomato) has created a massive market for fraudulent labelling. The Italian food fraud monitoring authority (ICQRF) estimates that 60-90% of canned products sold internationally as 'San Marzano' are either non-DOP San Marzano (grown outside the designated zone), San Marzano-type varieties (different tomato varieties with a similar shape), or simply ordinary Italian plum tomatoes with San Marzano labels. The authentic San Marzano DOP can: the Consorzio San Marzano DOP certification mark (a specific oval red logo with the Consorzio's name). The DOP designation prominently displayed. And the production lot number traceable to a specific farm in the designated zone. Price: approximately €3-5 for a 400g can of genuine San Marzano DOP versus €1-2 for non-DOP products. The specific taste difference: genuine San Marzano has a specific low acidity (naturally sweet, almost no harshness), low water content (more tomato flesh per weight, giving a richer sauce), and the specific earthy mineral character of the volcanic Campania soil. Italian food
Pachino, Piennolo and the other Italian tomato varieties worth knowing
The Pomodoro di Pachino IGP (Protected Geographical Indication, Pachino area, southeast Sicily) is Italy's most recognised cherry tomato brand, the small (20-40g), intensely sweet, thin-skinned tomatoes grown in the specific combination of the arid Sicilian southeast climate, the volcanic sandy soil of the Pachino area, and the high daily sunshine hours of the southernmost Sicilian tip. The Pachino comes in three shapes: tondo (round, the most common). Ciliegino (cherry, the smallest). And grappolo (cluster, sold on the vine). The IGP designation covers the Pachino area tomatoes but not the growing method (greenhouse or open-field), the open-field Pachino grown in the summer heat has the most concentrated flavour. The Piennolo del Vesuvio DOP (the hanging Vesuvio tomato, from the volcanic slopes of Vesuvius in the Naples province) is the specific Italian winter tomato: the small oval tomatoes (30-50g) are tied into hanging bunches (the piennolo, from the Neapolitan word for hanging) and left to dry gradually on the vine from the October harvest through winter. As the tomatoes desiccate they become sweeter, more concentrated, and develop the specific umami-mineral intensity of the volcanic soil. Used in December-March for the specific Neapolitan seafood pasta tradition (spaghetti alle vongole, spaghetti ai frutti di mare) when no good fresh tomatoes are available.
What is San Marzano DOP tomato?
San Marzano DOP (Pomodoro San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese-Nocerino DOP) is a specific heirloom tomato variety grown in 41 communes of the Sarnese-Nocerino plain in Campania (provinces of Napoli, Salerno, and Avellino), in the volcanic soil at the foot of Vesuvius. Characteristics: low acidity, low water content, dense flesh, specific mineral character from the volcanic soil. The only tomato variety approved by the AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) for certified Neapolitan pizza sauce. 60-90% of products labelled 'San Marzano' internationally aren't DOP, look for the Consorzio oval logo and the DOP designation on genuine products.
What is the Piennolo del Vesuvio tomato?
Piennolo del Vesuvio DOP is a small oval Campanian tomato (30-50g) grown on the volcanic slopes of Vesuvius, harvested in August-September and tied in hanging bunches (piennoli) to dry gradually through the winter. The drying process concentrates the sugars and the mineral character of the volcanic soil, by December-March, the Piennolo tomato is sweeter and more intense than at harvest. Used specifically in winter Neapolitan seafood cooking when fresh summer tomatoes are unavailable. DOP designation covers the volcanic slopes of Vesuvius within the 18 authorized communes. Available at Neapolitan food markets and delicatessens year-round. The December-March vine-dried piennolo is the peak quality moment.
What is the Pachino tomato from Sicily?
Pomodoro di Pachino IGP is grown in the southeast Sicily zone around Pachino (province of Siracusa). Italy's most recognised cherry tomato brand. Three varieties: tondo (round, sweet, thin skin). Ciliegino (the small cherry type). And grappolo (sold on the vine). The specific Pachino character: intense sweetness (from the high daily sunshine hours and the Sicilian southeast summer heat), thin skin (eaten raw), and the specific volcanic sandy soil mineral note. The open-field Pachino grown in the summer heat has the most concentrated flavour versus the greenhouse-grown winter version. Used in raw salads, with fresh pasta and seafood, and for the specific Sicilian cherry tomato pasta tradition (pasta al pomodorino di Pachino, simply good olive oil, garlic, cherry tomatoes, and basil).
What is the Cuore di Bue tomato?
Cuore di Bue (Ox Heart, the Italian beefsteak tomato) is a large (150-400g), meaty, almost seedless tomato with minimal juice, primarily a raw tomato used for insalata Caprese, the Piedmontese stuffed tomato (pomodoro ripieno al tonno), and the summer sliced tomato dish. The Cuore di Bue is grown across northern and central Italy (the Piemontese and Marchigiana varieties are considered the finest) from July to September. The August Cuore di Bue at the local market in Piedmont or the Marche is the specific Italian summer salad tomato experience. Not suitable for cooking sauces (too much flesh, too little acid for a balanced tomato sauce) but the finest raw tomato in the Italian repertoire.
What Italian tomatoes can I buy outside Italy?
Italian tomatoes available internationally: the San Marzano DOP canned (look for the Consorzio logo and DOP designation, brands including Cento, La Valle, Strianese, and Don Antonio are genuine DOP producers with international distribution. Available from Italian specialist importers and good supermarkets). The Pachino IGP cherry tomatoes (sold in European supermarkets as 'Pachino', the genuine IGP certification logo should appear. Available at Italian food importers). And the Piennolo del Vesuvio (available from specialist Italian delicatessen importers in dried or preserved form, the piennolo in olive oil, which preserves the winter tomatoes in extra virgin, is the most practically available format internationally).
Planning an Italy food and tomato experience?
San Marzano field visit Sarnese-Nocerino + Neapolitan pizza with certified DOP sauce + Pachino market Sicily August + Piennolo winter cooking class Naples.
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The Italian tomato in history, from ornamental plant to national identity
The tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) arrived in Italy from Mexico via the Spanish trade route in the early 16th century, the first Italian botanical documentation is in Pietro Andrea Mattioli's Commentarii (1544), where it is described as 'pomo d'oro' (golden apple) because the first tomatoes seen in Italy were yellow, not red. For approximately 150 years, the tomato was grown as an ornamental and botanical curiosity, the specific anxiety about the tomato as food (it belongs to the Solanaceae family, which includes the toxic belladonna and the deadly nightshade, and the early Italian herbalists were appropriately cautious) delayed its culinary adoption. The first documented Italian tomato recipe appears in Antonio Latini's Lo Scalco alla Moderna (1692), a salsa di pomodoro alla spagnola (Spanish-style tomato sauce, with oil, onion, and chili). By 1790, the tomato was established as a culinary ingredient in Naples. By 1830, the pizza with tomato sauce was documented in Neapolitan street food records. By 1880, the canned San Marzano tomato was being exported internationally and the specific identification of Naples and southern Italy with the tomato was complete.
The canned tomato revolution and the San Marzano export economy: the Foggia and Salerno plains in southern Italy became the canned tomato production center of Europe from the late 19th century onward, the specific combination of the volcanic soil, the hot dry summer, and the abundant farmworker labour created a canned tomato industry that by 1910 was exporting millions of cans annually to the Italian diaspora in New York, Buenos Aires, and Sydney. The specific San Marzano DOP value chain today: the approximately 30 licensed producers in the Sarnese-Nocerino zone produce approximately 4,000-5,000 tonnes of genuine DOP canned San Marzano per year, a fraction of the 60,000+ tonnes sold internationally under the 'San Marzano' label. The Consorzio San Marzano DOP certification program (established 1996) has the specific challenge of enforcing authenticity against a global market that produces fraudulent San Marzano labels at a volume 10-15 times the genuine production.
What Italian tomato varieties are used in pizza?
Italian tomato varieties in pizza: the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN) certification specifies that the only permitted tomato for certified Neapolitan pizza sauce is the San Marzano DOP or the Pomodoro Pelato di Napoli (a second Campanian plum tomato variety). The use of San Marzano in Neapolitan pizza sauce: the specific preparation is hand-crushing (not blended), the San Marzano is crushed by hand into the sauce, preserving the specific texture of the flesh while releasing the juice. The sauce is typically uncooked on the pizza base (cooking occurs in the wood-fired oven during the 60-90 second bake). The alternative pizza tomato traditions: in Rome, the pizza al taglio (rectangular pizza by the slice) uses a standard southern Italian plum tomato sauce. In Sicily, the sfincione (the specific thick-based Sicilian pizza) uses the Sicilian cherry tomato (often Pachino) with caramelised onion and anchovy.
What Italian tomato varieties are best for bruschetta?
Best Italian tomato varieties for bruschetta: the Cuore di Bue (beefsteak) is the most commonly used for the classic bruschetta al pomodoro, large, meaty, almost seedless, it produces the specific chunky rough-chopped topping that stays on the bread rather than sliding off. The Pachino cherry tomato (halved) is the Sicilian bruschetta tradition, smaller, sweeter, with more juice released on the toasted bread. The Tuscan summer bruschetta tradition: the local pomodoro maremmano (the large rough-surfaced tomato from the Maremma region of southern Tuscany) rubbed directly onto the grilled bread before the olive oil is added, the raw tomato juice absorbed into the bread before the topping is added. The specific anti-refrigeration rule: never refrigerate Italian tomatoes, refrigeration destroys the aromatic compounds that give the Italian summer tomato its specific character. Store at room temperature and use within 2-3 days of buy from the market.
